Thursday, December 11, 2008

I'm sticking with you, cause I'm made out of glue...

After an argument with a friend about the nature and definition of being "thin" in society, and how that definition has evolved, I have begun to give a lot of thought to the nature of the waist.

Some form of stays (boning or structuring of an undergarment made to modify the shape of the torso) or waist cincher, has ostensibly existed since 1000 B.C., but the rudimentary form of stays we associate with the corset came into fashion around the 15th century.
These laced all the way to the hip, and along with thick petticoats and the fashionable square neckline, was meant to emphasize the bust, an elongated torso and a "handspan" waist. Take Queen Elizabeth I in her teen years for example:

The corset grew more constricting as the skirt grew wider, until we come to the late 18th century, a time in which panniers grew so wide, hair so tall and waists so narrow, that clothing truly became a pageant of the ridiculous
Cases of misformed organs and cracked ribs run rampant among women looking to shave off that extra half inch with rigid metal and whalbone busks. To those of you who think that the eating disorder is a modern incarnation of a modern fixation, think again.

Clearly a backlash was coming. After the French Revolution and during the early Romantic period, fashion experienced what is known as the Regency period. A time that favoured dresses of simple silk and chiffon in pale colours with puffed or narrow leg-of-mutton sleeves and empire waists. Corsets were less restrictive, with less boning and looser lacing. This is where we usually get our visual references for Jane Austen herioines.

During the 20th century, the cycles of rejecting and embracing the waist by equal turns came even faster. During the twenties, lanky, slender figures with flat, broad waists and small breast became all the rage, to best acessorize the new acreage of skin being shown off in backless gowns and short skirts.

While the 40's reverted back to the nipped in waist and full skirt...

The 60's were all about "the sack" the "tent", the trapeze and shift dresses


The 90's was all about a small waist emphasized by a crop top, high waists, or a combination thereof.

By the time we moved into the present decade, things were really moving at hyperspeed. First there was the lowslung belt, made to emphasize low-rise jeans and jutting hipbones:

Then the belt got wider and were worn in bright patent colours at the waist (the local girls still love this one)


More recently was this nasty business of the resurge of sixties proportions. As you can imagine, it was hell for anyone of an hourglass or pear-shaped bodytype or simply a very petite stature. I don't think I bought any blouses or dresses for over a year, just because I didn't feel like wearing a belt with everything I own to avoid looking like a sad sack or a five year old.


Now we're coming out of "bodycon". The resurgence of an 80's trend, largely responsible for the revival of Herve Leger's bandage dresses, it was hailed as "the anti-trapeze", and as a celebration of healthier figure and womanly curves. The problem with this concept is that stretchy, spandex materials are not very flattering on "curves" not unless they have been methodically pilates-toned or Godgiven.


I suppose my complaint of the treatment of the waist in recent fashion is that it leaves no other flexibility for a body that's not naturally slender to exist in a flattering and fashion forward member. We constantly find ourselves buying things we're not comfortable in and constantly trying to work our bodies around them, rather than the other way around.Unlike fashions of the past, which emphasized simply using fashion to tweak your own physique into the favoured proportion, the only options left to be best served by trapezes, drop waists and body cons is simply to be tall, and barring that, to be as thin as possible. Even now, we are not safe, as the 90's crop top is finding favour with edgier souls than myself. In a lot of ways it's even more unforgiving than essentially wrapping your torso in spandex, there is no place for stomachs to hide. Better start doing those crunches, now, rather than later...

122 comments:

ana b. said...

This is a great, thought-provoking post. I like your point about buying clothes and trying to fit our bodies into them rather than finding clothes that work on us. I think the social construction of "beauty" is partly determined by what the current society believes is beautiful. Once we start to accept that curves and a healthy body is beautiful (a la Rubens and his "rubenesque" figures), then fashion may follow suit. Thanks for the post.

Naomi said...

I really enjoyed this post because of how you touched on an issue important to a lot of women. I'm always kind of sad about the fact that if you're not a lamp post, then you can't partake current fashion trends. That being said, girls that are naturally thin and tall should wear all those trendy clothes without feeling guilty. I've had some friends at school who are really small and thin despite eating all the time, and they are just as harassed for their size as bigger girls. I am definitely not a lamp post, so I feel incredibly uncomfortable when I try on bandage dresses or halter tops or anything else "show-ey" so I try to stick to more timeless styles. :) great blog, btw!

Johanne said...

Great post!

xx

KATLIN said...

Hanna, this is amazing! I've thought that eating disorders were a part of modern media, but now I can see it goes wayyyyy back. I can't imagine girls and women today trying to stuff themselves into metal corsets to get waists the size of their hand span. That's crazy! I think that as much as we try to push for larger models/ideals it won't be completely successful. It's like racism, we have overcome so much and moved away from the horrible past, but it is still ingrained in our minds and people are still very racist. Hopefully, with each year, decade and century, things get better... at least we don't have to have corsets!! :)

Ana said...

Great post. Sometimes I feel like I shouldnt be in fashion because I cant wear a rag and look good and have that "effortlessness."

Asya T said...

Well said. But perhaps, we don't need the world's view to tell us what fashion is. If one fashionista is confident enough, she may still wear a rag, and look effortlessness. Fashion is all about being individual and confident after all right?

Well, I'm just saying. Some might have a different view :)

Hannah Cheeto said...

Ah! The very idea of a corset... ouch. I strongly dislike sack dresses, but bodycon dresses can only be worn on non-bloated days.... And yeah the stuff about it being a "celebration of healthier figure and womanly curves" is such total BS. Can we find a happy medium?

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